Pete gets the meat sweats and Urvy gets shopping fever in Argentina.

Hi Everyone!

Salta was the first stop in this vast country.  It is more European and would be a great alternative holiday for anyone looking for a good introduction to South America. It is well renowned for a train ride called "Train to the Clouds" where you go on a train ride for 6 hours and see great mountain views at high altitude.  When we found out it didn't stop anywhere and it was basically a journey across a big viaduct, we decided not to go as we had already seen mountains at altitude and been on a train before.  Pete is also an expert on the viaduct at Stockport too. instead, we did a few hours of horse riding and Pete ended up on the back of a horse we affectionately named 'crazy horse' who could have been desert orchid's long lost brother.  We now have a certain sympathy for John Wayne after 5 hours of riding.

Next day, we waddled through a day trip to Cafayate, a sleepy town in the south of Salta, in the wine growing region.   We drove through the really impressive Cafayate gorge where there were several small canyons called "devils throat" and the "auditorium"  because of the great acoustics.  We were even more impressed when a lady from our minibus got off and started singing Ave Maria in the auditorium.  It turns out she was a singer in a choir and had performed all over Argentina!  That was value for money (well it was free).

At the vineyard, the wine was flowing and we got to see a Llama spit on a tourist arm for getting too close when trying to take pictures.  It was a great place for traditional gifts and we had a nice relaxing day there and the wine helped us sleep through the minibus journey back. 

After Salta we made a 24hr journey to Buenos Aires hoping to get straight out sightseeing but it was pouring down with rain.  So we headed for the local supermarket and found out what Argentinian food is like.  Steak was pretty cheap so Pete had that for 5 nights running, and the fruit, veg and gnocchi is also great.

As is is sacrilege to go to Argentina and not see a Tango show, we were talked into a cheaper version by an American guy in our dorm.  We got there and there was a 10 piece squeeze box (is it a harmonium??) band on the stage, and then the lead singer appeared with a bike helmet on and a microphone in his hand.  The singing wasn't as muffled as you might think, but the performance got more weird by the minute. We knew we had been sold a duff ticket when he finally came out with a multi-coloured umbrella in his hand and began shout/singing (you know when you've not been Tango'd). No dancers were to be seen (not even on the dance floor), so the next night we paid the proper amount and went to see an actual Tango show. 

The show was spectacular and Pete says he may even watch strictly when he gets back.  The wine was really overpriced, so we felt pretty chuffed with the fact we'd already had a bottle before going in.  The show lasted 2 hours and was well worth the cost. 

Sadly the weather didn't get any better and we only had 3 nights there.  When you factor in Urvy's shopping time, it was then time to leave.  So we boarded yet another 24 hr overnight bus to Iguazu falls on the border of Brazil and Argentina.

A bed for the night!

Lots of love,

Urvy and Pete

XXXX.

Having so much fun, only updating this 3 months late!

Well, that and the fact that Blogspot is banned in China!

Our Bolivian adventure continues......

We finally got to Copacabana after a short bus journey - for a change to the long and enduring ones of past trips.  The next day we took a boat to Isla Del Sol - another island in Lake Titicaca - but in the Bolivian side.  It was the birthplace of the Inkas, and their religion.  We spent a full day trekking the length of the island - which takes around 5 hours, and on a clear day you get great views of the snow capped Andes.  Where are the Andes? at the end of your arm-ies of course! People ask how long the Andes are - usually as long as your sleeve-ies!  (please don't stop reading).  It was a great day and we were absolutely knackered by the end of it. 

We next took a bus to La Paz.  At 4000m above sea level it is the highest capital city in the world.  We just spent a few days doing some light sightseeing here as the altitude was taking its toll and the very steep cobble stone streets make it hard to get anywhere quickly.  We did mooch around the local market and saw some dead, preserved baby Llama's for sale....supposedly you bury them under your new house to ward off evil spirits. Personally, I'd rather just have a Yucca plant as a house warming gift. 

 After a few days and couple of episodes of altitude sickness we moved onward to the Salar de Uyuni Salt flats in the south of the country - up to 5,000m above sea level.  The bus journey was overnight along dirt tracks, and we only got stuck once, and had to wait for half an hour to get towed out. 

We immediately set off on a three day off-road trip around the salt flats and surrounding mountain area.   The first stop was the train cemetery, where hundreds of old mining steam locomotives had been left to rust away in the desert.  Very strange place but a good photo opportunity. 

After that it was onto the the salts flats which were stunning and the most bizarre landscapes we have seen so far this year.  Just endless miles of completely flat, white salt crust. It didn't taste bad but we wouldn't put it on our chips in that state. It is the perfect conditions for comedy - perspective photo's! 

 In the middle of the flats is an "island" where hundreds of huge cactii grow.  A word of advice for anyone wanting to go, make sure you bring your sunglasses as it is blindingly bright.  After this we stopped in a salt hotel where everything is made of salt, (even the beds) apart from the toilet and showers.  The food tasted a bit funny though, a bit salty, and there was no salt shaker on the dinner table.

Next was the Andies mountains where we saw volcanoes, steaming geysers, hot springs, high altitude lakes that change colour from green to red, wild Flamingo's and Vicuna (a realtive of the Llama). 

 We also crossed several deserts (including the Salvador Dali desert) and saw the famous stone tree. 

The geysers were really impressive and gave off a mysterious fog, which also smelled strongly of rotten eggs (i was standing downwind of Pete though....).  On our return we recieved some good news - City had beaten Liverpool 3-0! After a long journey back, and a flat tyre - luckily only 500 yards from the town centre, we arrived in time for our overnight train to our next country, beefy Aregentina (yum for Pete - chicken for Urvy).

Hope everyone back home is well!

lots of love

from your favourite crusty travellers, Urvy and Pete xxxx

Bowler hats......on a lady?!

Beunos Dias Todos!

Arequippa is another high altitude town in the shadow of the El Misti Volcano. We decided to do a bit more trekking here and booked a 2 day hike into and out of of the Colca Canyon, which is deeper than the grand canyon in America. Pick up was at 3am, and the drive to the first stop took 4 hours, with breakfast being a packet of cookies and a handmade cheese sandwich, made by the tour guide on the bus. Not exactly gourmet, but beggars can't be choosers! On the way we stopped to see Andean Condors (some of which were masquerading as eagles) before donning our trekking gear and heading down the slope with our trek guide (a 16 year old girl, wearing converse pumps) leading the way.

 The Canyon is beautiful with magnificent views all round but the path was a bit longer than were were lead to believe. We arrived at our beautiful oasis type lodgings at the bottom of the canyon in the dark so we couldn't even see them and were greeted with freezing cold showers, beds made from stone and found a large bug cooked in the spaghetti bolognaise,which we found whilst eating the meal in the dark. Lovely. The next day we set off in the dark at 5am, back up the hill side and being told we had to get to the top in 2 hours where breakfast would be waiting for us. 4 hours later we all emerged but there was still time for breakfast. After much grumbling by the tour guide, we set off back in the minibus to another hot springs which fortunately this time, were very nice, clean and provided us with no significant after-effects.

We then set off for our final destination in Peru, the town of Puno on the shore of Lake Titicaca. Puno is at 4000m above sea level and the highest place we have visited so far in South America.  We went on a day trip to the floating islands of the Uros People.  They comprise lots of large floating masses of reeds stacked together and anchored to the lake floor, each one lasts about 60 years.  Its a bit of a tourist trap but was very interesting so see all the traditionally dressed women in their bright coloured skirts and bowler hats.

  Everything is made out of reeds, houses, boats, beds, clothes, jewellery,dental floss, toilet roll, (joking about the last two) they do everything but eat them.  After that we moved on to a "proper" island made of good old fashioned rock, Taquile island in the middle of Lake Titicaca.  The lake itself is huge, looking more like an ocean and supposed to be the highest navigable waterway in the world.  Taquile island is home to another ancient tribe, who wear a lot of fancy hats to denote their social standing.  The views from here over the lake were amazing with the snow capped mountains visible in the distance.  After this it was time for us to leave Peru (as we had overstayed our visa by a day, oops! and a $22 fine to boot!)  and head cross the border to Bolivia.  The stories of industrial strikes, high crime rates, being spat on in a scam to steal your wallet, and the worlds most dangerous roads didn't scare us!

Peru - Strange lines and long climbs.

Hello everyone!

After Paracas we went to Nazca to see the famous desert Lines. We took a flight in a small 6 man aeroplane over the lines, 2 pilots, 2 rather ill looking french girls and us. The flight was not for anyone with any slight fear of flying, or after lunch. Whilst the lines and shapes were excellent, some are clearer than others and many have been spoilt by people driving across them. No-one knows for sure why they were drawn but Kirsty's dad Arther seems to think they were done by Aliens. The most popular idea is that they were an offering to the gods to provide water to the people in times of drought.  Only they were done in the most arid and remote places on earth. The flight was only 30 minutes but most of it was spent on your side as he made some pretty sharp turns. That was plenty long enough for the french girls, as we think one of them saw her breakfast croissant again as soon as we got off the plane.



look closely to the bottom left of the picture for the spider.



this is Manos -  spanish for hands.



Whilst in Nazca we also visited Chauchilla cemetery where the remains of the Nazca people can still be seen as they believed in mummification for everyone, although all of the graves have now been robbed. Despite this archaeologists still managed to re-create some of the graves for public viewing.

After our few days in Nazca we went on to Cusco and the area around the sacred valley of the Inca's. Cusco is a beautiful town but at 3600m above sea level, it is not the easiest to get around (Manchester is about 100). After a while the altitude can really get to you and walking anywhere can become a chore, especially if it involves going up hill on cobbles with a 20kg backpack). Whilst here we visited the Inca ruins of Saqsay Waman (affectionately known as Sexy Woman) and Pete sampled the delights of Lama and Alpaca steak (not bad but both taste like beef).

From Cusco, we made the overnight trip along the sacred valley to Macchu Pichu. In the Sacred Valley we visited more ruins at Pisac and Ollytytambo, both of which were very impressive before boarding the train to Aguas Calienties. We stopped here for a night before getting the early morning bus to the famous ruins at Macchu Pichu for sunrise. Its difficult to describe the scene, its breathtaking and stunningly beautiful, and if you can get the several thousand other tourists to stand to one side while you take your photos then you will have some really nice pictures to remember it by. But honestly, it was probably one of the most memorable and impressive places we have visited this year, we spent a full 10 hours walking around and still were not bored by the end of the day.

  

If that was beauty, then the hot springs in Aguas Callienties were definitely the beast! We thought we would stop by for a quick dip before getting the train back to Cusco, and even the foul odour and brown colouration was not going to put us off. Unfortunately Urv got splashed by some kid and the water went in her mouth. We won't go into details but, suffice to say she didn't get out out the room for the next three days except to visit the doctors. Two courses of Antibiotics later plus other tablets, she was back on her feet and we boarded yet another overnight bus to our next destination of Arequippa, rattling like a medicine trolley.